BikeBuy
Brakes Critical

How to Bleed and Set Up Your Bike Brakes

Firm lever, no rub, full stopping power. Get the fluid right.

A spongy lever, wandering bite point, or rubbing rotor means it is time to bleed and set your brakes. The single most important thing: use the correct fluid — Shimano mineral oil and SRAM DOT are NOT interchangeable, and the wrong one destroys the seals.

Difficulty
Intermediate
Time
30–45 min per brake
Interval
Bleed every 12 months · pads as needed
Severity
Critical
Fits Hydraulic disc Rotor: Centerlock / 6-bolt Mount: flat-mount / post-mount Fluid: mineral vs DOT

Mineral oil, funnel bleed. Forgiving and clean — the workshop favourite.

Correct fluid — do not substitute

Shimano mineral oil (red/low-viscosity). Never DOT.

Mineral oil and DOT are not interchangeable — the wrong fluid destroys the seals.

Torque specs

Caliper mount bolts 6–8 N·m
Centerlock lockring 40 N·m
Banjo bolt 5–7 N·m

Manufacturer-claimed — always confirm against your model manual.

Video walk-throughs

Opens a YouTube search — we link out rather than embed unverified videos.

Manuals & documents

Further reading

Mechanic's tips

  • Use ONLY Shimano mineral oil.
  • The funnel + one-way lever bleed clears air fast.
Safety — read first
  • DOT and mineral oil are NOT interchangeable — the wrong fluid swells and destroys the seals.
  • DOT fluid is corrosive: keep it off paint, skin and eyes; wear gloves + glasses.
  • Any oil on pads or rotor kills braking — clean with isopropyl or replace contaminated pads.

Tools you'll need

Brand-specific bleed kit

Funnel or syringes to match

Correct fluid

Mineral OR DOT — never mix

2.5 mm hex + torque wrench

Bleed ports + caliper bolts

Isopropyl alcohol + rag

Clean spills off pads/rotor

Gloves + eye protection

DOT fluid is corrosive

Step by step

  1. 1

    Fit the bleed spacer

    Remove pads, push pistons back, fit the bleed block.

  2. 2

    Attach the kit

    Funnel at the lever or syringes at both ends — per system.

  3. 3

    Push fluid through

    Move fluid lever↔caliper to carry air out of the system.

  4. 4

    Purge air

    Tap the hose/caliper, work the lever, chase every bubble.

  5. 5

    Set the bite point

    Close bleed ports; lever should be firm at your preferred reach.

  6. 6

    Align the caliper

    Squeeze the lever, snug the mount bolts so pads clear the rotor.

  7. 7

    Bed in the pads

    Accelerate + brake firmly 15–20× to transfer pad material.

  8. 8

    Check for rub

    Spin the wheel; fine-tune caliper position until silent.

Frequently asked

Can I mix mineral oil and DOT fluid? +

No — never. Mineral oil (Shimano, Magura, most TRP) and DOT fluid (SRAM, Hope) attack each other's seals. Even a small cross-contamination swells the caliper and lever seals and the brake will need a full rebuild. Always check the fluid stamped on your lever or caliper before you start.

How do I know my brakes actually need a bleed? +

A lever that pulls to the bar (spongy or getting softer over weeks), a bite point that keeps creeping closer to the grip, or visible fluid weeping at the lever or caliper are the classic signs air or a fluid leak has got into the system. A rubbing rotor with no lever softness is usually just caliper alignment, not a bleed.

Why is my rotor rubbing after I fitted new pads? +

New pads are thicker than worn ones, so the caliper needs to be re-centred. Loosen the two caliper mount bolts, squeeze the lever firmly to self-centre the caliper on the rotor, then torque the bolts while still holding the lever.

Do I need to bed in new pads and rotors? +

Yes — skipping bed-in is the #1 reason new brakes feel weak. Accelerate to a moderate speed and brake hard (without locking up) 15–20 times per wheel, letting the brake cool between efforts. This transfers a thin, even layer of pad material onto the rotor and roughly doubles peak stopping power.

How we source this

  • Steps and standards are drawn from Park Tool's public repair guides plus each manufacturer's own bleed and service manuals — cross-checked, not copied from a single source.
  • Torque figures are manufacturer-claimed — always confirm against your model's manual before applying a torque wrench, especially on carbon calipers or levers.
  • Fluid type (mineral vs DOT) is stated per brand for the models we cover; some brands changed fluid type across generations, so always confirm what is stamped on your specific lever/caliper before opening the system.
  • Video links point to real, named creators (Park Tool, GMBN Tech, brand channels) for a title/channel search — we never fabricate a video ID or embed an unverified clip.